Saturday, April 9, 2011
Sunday, May 30, 2010
Saturday, May 29, 2010
The Benefit Of Socializing Your German Shepherd
Did you know that dogs love to socialize? Taking your dog to different places can be such a great adventure. When interacting with other dogs or people, your dog will develop the social skills needed to be a better pet. These trips can stimulate them both mentally and physically.
Of course it is best if your dog has had some sort of basic training. It is important for you to have control of your dog in these situations. Once your dog has had basic obedience training you can more easily allow them to socialize with other dogs. You will have total control over them, thus avoiding any unpleasant mishaps. As you take your dog to more places, you will start to see an even better behaved dog. More socializing leads to a more manageable dog.
Another benefit to socializing your dog is less boredom. With the proper amount of interaction with other dogs and people, your dog should be more content at home and less likely to attempt escaping or running around unnecessarily.
Giving your dog a variety of experiences with different situations is an important part of being a responsible owner. Also, by being together in a variety of places and social interactions your bond deepens. So take your dog to as many places as possible. Allow your dog to develop into a confident individual and your relationship will blossom
Of course it is best if your dog has had some sort of basic training. It is important for you to have control of your dog in these situations. Once your dog has had basic obedience training you can more easily allow them to socialize with other dogs. You will have total control over them, thus avoiding any unpleasant mishaps. As you take your dog to more places, you will start to see an even better behaved dog. More socializing leads to a more manageable dog.
Another benefit to socializing your dog is less boredom. With the proper amount of interaction with other dogs and people, your dog should be more content at home and less likely to attempt escaping or running around unnecessarily.
Giving your dog a variety of experiences with different situations is an important part of being a responsible owner. Also, by being together in a variety of places and social interactions your bond deepens. So take your dog to as many places as possible. Allow your dog to develop into a confident individual and your relationship will blossom
Three weeks to three months is a critical age in socializing your puppy
Most of a dog’s behavior habits are formed from birth to 1 year of age. When you bring your new puppy home, it is important to get it accustomed to different sites and sounds. Slowly introduce it to the things in your household. If your puppy growls at an object or person, do not pick him up and cuddle him. This reaction will be rewarding to your puppy, and will intensify the dog's behavior. It will teach him that the appropriate reaction to fear is to growl. Growling can lead to biting. Rather the dog should be corrected, much like a mother dog would to their own puppy. Stern, firm, confident, and consistent.
Tell him "No," show him the object and let him know there is nothing to be afraid of. You may need to give him a touch that matches your dog's own intensity (mocking a mother dog). Puppies like to play. They chew on everything including your fingers and legs - sometimes with a playful growl. Do not confuse this normal, natural behavior with the defensive growl of fear.
Take your puppy out often. Show him all kinds of sites, sounds, people and animals. Once your dog has had all of his shots, you can bring him to a dog park. Dogs should be taken for a pack walk before getting to the dog park, in order for them to be in a more sociable state of mind. Be careful when introducing your puppy to other dogs and animals. Know your dog's breed traits and use your best judgment. For instance, if you know your neighbor’s dog is dog-aggressive, take your puppy to the park instead to do your doggie socializing. If you know your puppy’s breed has been known to kill cats, take extra precaution when cats are present. Always correct your puppy if he shows any signs of aggression or domination towards another animal or person. Do not laugh it off as being cute.
If there is a baby in the house, at the first encounter, carefully let your puppy smell the baby, than ask the dog for space, meaning, ask the dog to back away and stay away, as the baby claims HIS or HER area. This will make your baby higher in the pack order than the dog and the start of the bond between your new dog and your child. Teach your children to respect the puppy, and teach your puppy to respect your child. NEVER tolerate growling even with small dogs. Growling is a sign that your dog thinks he is Top Dog.
Three weeks to three months is a critical age in socializing your puppy. This is when most of his behaviors are being formed. For this reason it is important to find a breeder who takes time to socialize their puppies. When you get your puppy or adult dog home, continue their socialization. If the breeder did not do a good job socializing the pup or if your adult dog is not well socialized, with some work on your part, you can change their behavior. Introduce them to all types of sights and sounds, correcting them at the right moment if they should begin to act out in an inappropriate manner. For a dog, life is all about the moment, and you can, at anytime change the way they view their surroundings. In order for you to do this, you yourself will need to be in a firm and confident mind frame. Dogs can read human emotions and if you are anything but, you can set your dog off. No words need to be spoken for this to happen, they can feel what you feel, you cannot hide it. They need you to be strong minded, as dogs instinctively need a strong pack leader to be mentally stable. A dog will feed off of the way a human feels. If you are unstable, anxious, worried, nervous, scared, hyper etc... your dog will feel this. There reactions to a humans instability will vary. It may empower them and they may try to take over, to "help" both of you survive. Or it may make them mentally unstable, becoming fearful, or nervous. Fearful dogs, sometimes act out with aggression. Dogs NEED a strong minded leader.
So while you take your dog out and introduce him to all types of new sights and sounds, pay honest attention to the way you feel as well, because your dog already knows.
The German Shepherds Dog
German Shepherds, also known as Alsatian, are medium-large dogs. Males generally range between 24 and 26 inches tall at the shoulder and weigh 70-90 pounds. Females generally range 22-24 inches and 60-80 pounds. Some shepherds may be a bit smaller, my dogs, may be as large as 30 inches and weigh as much as 140 pounds.
The colors of German Shepherds are black and tan (with the tan portion ranging from a light cream to a deep red-depending upon the individual dog); solid black; white; bi-color (a black dog with tan legs); black and silver; blue (which looks like a very muted, grayish black and tan); sable. In a sable, just the tip of each hair is colored. Their almond-shaped eyes are medium to dark brown, and they have a black nose.
Double-coated shepherds have a soft wooly undercoat and an outer coat of longer, harsher guard hairs. Shepherds can be coated normally or can be long coated or open coated. Long coats have about the same coat as a Belgian Tervuren. Open coats have no undercoat and usually have softer guard hairs. Even with the double coated German Shepherds, it is recommended that they reside indoors as a family member.
Shepherds should be brushed or raked daily to reduce shedding--which can be substantial. Although they shed year round, shepherds shed most heavily twice a year when blowing their coat (lose and replace the undercoat). To prevent dry skin and itchiness, shepherds should be bathed no more than every 4-6 weeks.
Although one or both ears on some adult shepherds don't stand, their large ears usually stand naturally-not cropped. Their ears hang down when they are born and begin to go up at approximately 2-4 months. They may flop back down when heavy-duty teething begins around 4-6 months of age. The tail should hang down to the ground when they dog is at rest and should be carried in a slight upward curve when the dog is in motion. Although not common, some shepherds have a ring tail (carried in a ring).
German Shepherds are very intelligent, responsive dogs. Originally bred to make most of their own decisions as herding dogs, German Shepherds have the ability to think for themselves and, therefore, will assume the leadership role if not trained in obedience and given firm rules that are not to be broken. They take to obedience training quite well and excel as guide dogs, assistance dogs for the physically challenged, search and rescue dogs, police patrol dogs, narcotics dogs, agility dogs, etc.
Because they are territorial and protective, German Shepherds are natural guard dogs. They instinctively protect their home and family from danger. Because they bark when they hear anyone or anything, they need to be supervised in densely populated areas to avoid disturbing neighbors. Games of retrieval are a good way to distract them and give them exercise when in a fenced yard. When adult shepherds are adopted, they should be kept under close supervision for about a month as they may try, out of loyalty, to escape in search of former owners before bonding to you.
German Shepherds are energetic dogs and need routine exercise. A brisk half hour walk about twice a day is needed unless they are given a lot of interactive playtime by their owners on a daily basis. If given sufficient exercise, shepherds adapt well to apartment living.
They need to be socialized well and early in lots of different physical environments. They are naturally aloof with strangers, and some can be a bit suspicious of strangers if not exposed to people outside the family at an early age. Some shepherds are overly aggressive, and some are very shy. Although it can be genetic, this usually is due to poor or no training. A stable shepherd is a true best friend--extremely loyal, intelligent, affectionate, protective and responsive.
Properly socialized, shepherds are usually excellent with children, affectionate and loving with their families, accepting of family friends, aloof with strangers, and good with cats if raised with them. Some shepherds may show some dog aggression--especially males toward other males. Shepherds need a lot of human companionship. They should never be chained outside or kenneled as they will suffer emotionally.
Possible health problems include hip dysplasia, elbow dysplasia, skin allergies, bloat, and spinal myelopathy (incurable paralysis of the hind legs). Hypothyroidism (low thyroid function) is common in German Shepherds although they usually do not exhibit the traditional symptoms of excess weight, laziness or sluggishness, or coat and skin problems. Thyroid problems may not occur until they are at least 4 years old. Annual blood tests are recommended to help prevent associated effects on their immune system.
German Shepherds usually live approximately 10-12 years though many have lived to 14 or 15.
The colors of German Shepherds are black and tan (with the tan portion ranging from a light cream to a deep red-depending upon the individual dog); solid black; white; bi-color (a black dog with tan legs); black and silver; blue (which looks like a very muted, grayish black and tan); sable. In a sable, just the tip of each hair is colored. Their almond-shaped eyes are medium to dark brown, and they have a black nose.
Double-coated shepherds have a soft wooly undercoat and an outer coat of longer, harsher guard hairs. Shepherds can be coated normally or can be long coated or open coated. Long coats have about the same coat as a Belgian Tervuren. Open coats have no undercoat and usually have softer guard hairs. Even with the double coated German Shepherds, it is recommended that they reside indoors as a family member.
Shepherds should be brushed or raked daily to reduce shedding--which can be substantial. Although they shed year round, shepherds shed most heavily twice a year when blowing their coat (lose and replace the undercoat). To prevent dry skin and itchiness, shepherds should be bathed no more than every 4-6 weeks.
Although one or both ears on some adult shepherds don't stand, their large ears usually stand naturally-not cropped. Their ears hang down when they are born and begin to go up at approximately 2-4 months. They may flop back down when heavy-duty teething begins around 4-6 months of age. The tail should hang down to the ground when they dog is at rest and should be carried in a slight upward curve when the dog is in motion. Although not common, some shepherds have a ring tail (carried in a ring).
German Shepherds are very intelligent, responsive dogs. Originally bred to make most of their own decisions as herding dogs, German Shepherds have the ability to think for themselves and, therefore, will assume the leadership role if not trained in obedience and given firm rules that are not to be broken. They take to obedience training quite well and excel as guide dogs, assistance dogs for the physically challenged, search and rescue dogs, police patrol dogs, narcotics dogs, agility dogs, etc.
Because they are territorial and protective, German Shepherds are natural guard dogs. They instinctively protect their home and family from danger. Because they bark when they hear anyone or anything, they need to be supervised in densely populated areas to avoid disturbing neighbors. Games of retrieval are a good way to distract them and give them exercise when in a fenced yard. When adult shepherds are adopted, they should be kept under close supervision for about a month as they may try, out of loyalty, to escape in search of former owners before bonding to you.
German Shepherds are energetic dogs and need routine exercise. A brisk half hour walk about twice a day is needed unless they are given a lot of interactive playtime by their owners on a daily basis. If given sufficient exercise, shepherds adapt well to apartment living.
They need to be socialized well and early in lots of different physical environments. They are naturally aloof with strangers, and some can be a bit suspicious of strangers if not exposed to people outside the family at an early age. Some shepherds are overly aggressive, and some are very shy. Although it can be genetic, this usually is due to poor or no training. A stable shepherd is a true best friend--extremely loyal, intelligent, affectionate, protective and responsive.
Properly socialized, shepherds are usually excellent with children, affectionate and loving with their families, accepting of family friends, aloof with strangers, and good with cats if raised with them. Some shepherds may show some dog aggression--especially males toward other males. Shepherds need a lot of human companionship. They should never be chained outside or kenneled as they will suffer emotionally.
Possible health problems include hip dysplasia, elbow dysplasia, skin allergies, bloat, and spinal myelopathy (incurable paralysis of the hind legs). Hypothyroidism (low thyroid function) is common in German Shepherds although they usually do not exhibit the traditional symptoms of excess weight, laziness or sluggishness, or coat and skin problems. Thyroid problems may not occur until they are at least 4 years old. Annual blood tests are recommended to help prevent associated effects on their immune system.
German Shepherds usually live approximately 10-12 years though many have lived to 14 or 15.
The Proper Way To Feed Your Dog
Dogs, Lions and Tigers are all carnivores and in nature, none attempt to live on dry food. However, many Vets are teaching their clients to feed only dry food. The stomachs and intestines of dogs prey contain predigested vegetation and provide the meat eaters with much needed minerals, enzymes, and chlorophyll and other nutrients necessary for excellent health and longevity. Most of the Carnivores like dogs don't possess the enzyme cellulose to digest Cellulose (fiber) like Herbivores, such as rabbits, deer and other small prey, and carnivores depend on these fresh kills to provide these much needed nutrients. Dogs that are not confined will hunt small game and satisfy their natural need for these complex nutrients. When fed as we instruct at Lanes House Of Shepherds, your dog will never have a 'doggy' odor!!Our Domesticated Dogs have lived off our table, and around our Campfires for Thousands of years. They have shared our foods from our tables containing Cooked Vegetables as well as Yogurt, Cheeses, and Meats and they have thrived. Until very recently Dry Kibble Dog Food could not be found in most third world countries, consequently, most dogs living in less developed countries eat food from their owners tables. I'm convinced that this natural food diet is the reason those dogs have longer longevity than domesticated dogs living on a totally dry kibble food diet as regularly recommended by Veterinarians.
The diet we feed our puppies and older dogs consists of Meat (chicken, turkey or canned Mackerel or other meats low in fat), Eggs, Vegetables, Cod liver oil, Yogurt, Kelp, and Garlic. We find that top premium pet foods have most of this already mixed in so all you have to do is pour. There dry food contain no Soy, No By-Products (in other words, no Hair, Hooves, Manure, Horns or Chicken Feathers), no preservatives like BHA or BHT, Ethoxyquin, etc. The most common question/comment from first visitors is: Why is there no bad odor here? Or Why don't these dogs smell/have a doggy odor?' Try our diet plan for your pets and you will see great overall health, beautiful coats, no mange or skin problems and dogs that don't stink.
Top Premium dog foods have been formulated using only fresh, natural, whole ingredients from each of the five food groups.
Naturally nutritious fresh chicken and turkey meat, plus high quality chicken meal, provide the foundation for great taste. But we didn't stop there. Fresh whole milk, cottage cheese and whole clove garlic add natural vitamins and flavor. Alfalfa sprouts help satisfy your pet's natural urge to graze. Natural cold-pressed sunflower oil provides the high quality fatty acids needed for healthy skin and a shiny hair coat.
Premium dog foods recipes are based on the most advanced research in animal health. The latest findings in orthomolecular medicine (the study of optimal amounts of substances, especially vitamins, found in the body to achieve optimal health) convinced us to increase the levels of disease fighting antioxidants - Vitamin A, Vitamin C, and Vitamin E - in top premium dog food formula.
Preservatives? Some top premium dog food is preserved naturally with vitamins C and E... and nothing else.
Farm Fresh Ingredients
Top premium dog foods contains only fresh, natural, whole ingredients from each of the five major food groups - providing a balanced, nutritious and varietal diet for your pet.innovative cooking methods combine fresh turkey and chicken meat, fresh fruit and vegetables and a variety of natural whole ground grains to create pet-foods unequaled in healthful, nutritional benefits.
Compare Top Premium dog foods found in The Whole Dog Journal Top Dog Foods For Total Wellness to any other pet-food. We're sure you'll agree that there's a healthy, significant difference.
Health Foods from the Basic 5
Petfoods prepared with a wide variety of healthful ingredients form each of the five basic food groups: fresh lean meats, wholesome fruits and vegetables, natural whole grains, vitamin-rich potatoes, milk and cottage cheese.
Variety is the key to meeting your pet's many nutritional needs. Innova's healthy mix of nutritious ingredients assures a balanced and enjoyable meal every time.
The Dairy Group -- Cottage cheese provides plenty of nutrient-rich calcium, protein, vitamins A and D, and B vitamins.
The Protein Group -- Protein is an integral part of your pet's diet. And fresh turkey, chicken and herring meats bring more to the food dish than just good flavor - they are lean, excellent sources of protein. High quality meat protein provides all the essential amino acids required for the proper nutrition of both dogs and cats.
The Vegetable Group -- A bounty of fresh vegetables are found in premium pet-foods: carrots, Idaho potatoes, alfalfa sprouts and whole clove Gilroy-grown garlic (high in selenium). These vegetables add the antioxidant vitamins A and C, carbohydrates, fiber and various minerals to the diet. And because these vegetables are fresh, whole, and not pre-processed, the flavors and most of the important nutrients - including the "protector" antioxidants - are locked in.
The Fruit Group -- There's now a new twist to the old axiom about apples: "An apple a day keeps the veterinarian away!" Apples - and the nutrients in them - help your pet stay healthy. The fresh, whole apples used in some top premium pet-foods provide important "protector" nutrients, as well as plenty of carbohydrates and fiber, essential for your pet's good health. The antioxidant vitamin C helps to form healthy new cells and heal wounds. Potassium promotes neuromuscular development. And the antioxidants beta-carotene and vitamin A aid in good vision, bone and tooth development, and building resistance to infections.
The Grain Group -- All of the grains in Most top premium petfoods are natural whole grains, not grain fractions such as bran, gluten, flour, or mids. Healthful whole grains are important sources of B vitamins, carbohydrates, iron, fiber, and selenium. Nutritious barley and brown and white rices provide important complex carbohydrates to support pet activity and exercise.
Look at top premium dog foods Ingredients:
Turkey
Chicken
Chicken Meal
Herring
Apples
Garlic
Potatoes
Alfalfa Sprouts
Carrots
Cottage Cheese
Milk
Eggs
In addition to these fresh ingredients, top Premium dog foods contains:
Whole Ground Barley and Whole Ground Brown & White Rice
These are quality grain sources of highly digestible carbohydrates, not pre-processed grain fractions from other industries.
Sunflower Oil and Chicken Fat
These are ultra high-quality sources of fat... chosen for their skin & coat properties and are rich in linoleic acid and omega 3 fatty acids!
Chicken Meal and Herring
Premium dog foods contain ground chicken meat & whitefish that provide high quality, highly digestible protein.
Lactobacillus Acidophilus, Lactobacillus Casei, Streptococcus Faecium, Lactobacillus Plantarum
These important probiotics are added to help prevent disease and sickness, especially critical for dogs and cats that are under stress from shipping, showing, surgery, and kennel stays.
Vitamins E, C & A (Beta-Carotene), Selenium, Zinc, Manganese
These antioxidants play a vital role in protecting body cells from the damage caused by chemicals and environmental pollutants such as cigarette smoke, exhaust fumes and smog.
When comparing premium dog foods to your favorite brand, please take special care to notice the following ingredients which top premium dog food Products refuses to use: Meat Meal, Animal Fat, Poultry By-Products, Soybean Meal, Rice Gluten, Wheat Mids, Peanut Hulls, Rice Bran, Wheat Flour, Wheat Bran, Rice Flour, BHA, Ethoxyquin, Artificial Colors or Flavors, or any other substandard, low quality, by-product from human food processing.
What you and your Puppy need to know to live together.
A trained dog is not likely to be spoiled. Through training he has learned to look for leadership, has learned trust and obedience. Indulging in bad behavior, catering to his every desire, allowing nipping, begging, stealing from plates, barking, etc.is another matter. The irritating, unpleasant dog has become "leader of the pack", while the trained dog develops into a companion free to be with you wherever you dog.
Growling, snapping and nipping are an attempt to gain control - to become leader of the pack.
The destructive chewer has not been taught responsible behavior and should not be rewarded with the freedom to behave so.
The food or garbage stealer has never been taught his limits.
The dog indifferent to his owners commands has learned not to respect his owner - he's not tired or bored.
The dog which incessantly demands his owners attention is over-indulged. Owners sometimes choose not to teach, preferring, instead, to "buy" the pup's love with permissiveness, over petting and coddling. Each pup naturally must find his place in the [family] pack. The owner must assume the "leader" position to provide the security the pup needs. Preventing problems is easier than solving them!
Dogs are genetically programmed to live in packs. A dog requires leadership to give structure and security to his life. The pup's mother corrected each pup firmly, swiftly, and instantly, by using a neck shake, a clout of her paw, or by pinning the pup to the ground. She was the "boss".
In his new home the pup will fill the role of leader if none is provided. This is usually shown through growls, nips and other dominant behavior. Avoid excessive petting as only the pack leader is entitled to such demonstrations. Once a dog is trained and under control the owner can indulge in hugging without fear of spoiling him.
All members of the family must agree to behave consistently. Do not allow the pup on the couch one day and scold him the next. This is very confusing to a pup.
At eight weeks the new puppy in the home should be accustomed to normal household sounds: the vacuum cleaner, dishwasher, TV, radio, toilet, etc. Ideally, this was begun by the breeder. Invite friends and neighbors to your home to meet the new pup. Take him for short car rides to accustom his body to the motion of a moving car and to help prevent car sickness later on.
After a couple of weeks take him everywhere you can, choosing new environments each time. Examples are a park, a school yard, a construction site, a busy sidewalk, a busy plaza. If the pup ever shows fear, do NOT pet him. He'll view this as praise for being fearful. Remain calm and let him adjust his behavior.
As leader, use a happy, enthusiastic tone when praising your pup for good behavior, and accompany your verbal praise with petting. Praise good behavior generously. Never reward fearful behavior by "soothing" it with a soft voice and stroking. This only reinforces the behavior, from the dog's point of view, he is being rewarded.
Never pet or soothe a pup when he is aggressively threatening anyone. A full-blown case of dangerous aggression could result.
Use a calm, firm voice when disciplining. Do not plead with the pup. Discipline does not mean punishment and should not be harsh physical punishment.
Use NO to inform your pup that his actions are not appropriate. NO is an authoritative sound with the object of creating an immediate reaction. Do not use the word "no" combined with your pup's name.
OK is a happy-sounding, positive word. It gives permission and approval from you.
Dogs are den animals, and a crate is readily accepted as a pup's private place. A crate provides a secure place to prevent the pup from undesirable behavior. Since no dog likes to soil his den, house training will be simplified by using a crate. The crate should be located in your bedroom to promote bonding with your pup.
The pup will earn freedom by demonstrating his responsibility. Later, the pup can be provided with more freedom and the crate left with the door open.
As a rule, all pups will have to "go" upon waking, after eating, after drinking, during or after play or excitement, whenever they are busily circling and sniffing, and just because!
Food remains in the intestinal tract about 16 hours. Therefore, a regular feeding schedule will equate to a regular washroom schedule. Dogs free fed are eating all the time - what goes in all day, comes out all day. A feeding at 6:00 a.m. will produce elimination at 10:00 p.m. and a 6:00 p.m. feeding will produce elimination at 10:00 a.m. Adjust the feeding schedule to times you can exercise the dog.
People who work part time simply crate the pup while away. People who are at home all day can tie the pup's leash to their waist as they go about their chores, monitoring him closely to take him out when he indicates he needs to "go". People who work full time should not expect a young pup to be in his crate for 8-10 hours at a stretch.
Remember, very young puppies need to sleep a lot, crate training takes advantage of this need by putting the pup in his crate to nap. Then, he is taken outside as soon as he awakens. Walk him on leash until he goes, then praise him happily. Encourage him with an expression such as "Do your business," "Go pee," et cetera.
After elimination the pup should be given play time with feeding afterwards.
Do:
* expect a few noisy nights when the pup first comes home.
* adhere to a rigid walk-play-feed-walk schedule.
* feed on a regular schedule.
* allow peace and privacy when the pup is in his crate.
* allow the pup to sleep in your bedroom.
Don't:
* expect the pup to spend more than four hours in the crate.
* allow children to tease the pup in his crate
* leave destructible items in the crate.
* give water after 7:00 p.m.
* take the pup out of his crate if he is barking, crying, etc.
* place rugs, pillows, etc. in the crate. Use newspapers.
* also attempt to paper train. Why teach him to "go" indoors?
All pups use their teeth, just as they did in their litter, nipping or chewing to test their limits. The mother never permits the pup to nip her - she punishes swift and to the point.
Biting is usually the result of misbehavior that was never corrected. It escalates as the pup grows up thinking of himself as the leader of the pack. Corrections must be done instantly every time it occurs. Very young puppies generally respond to a piercing YIPE! and will release instantly. Another technique is the hand-over-the-muzzle grab accompanied by a firm NO and a low, menacing growl. He will understand this just as he did his mother.
For those who are a little more determined a firm, upward open-handed tap under the chin, a firm NO, and a growl will usually work. When he stops, take him to his crate and leave him alone for half an hour.
Keep a 4 inch-6 inch "grab" lead on him so he cannot escape from any correction.
The use of food treats to train basic commands is generally not recommended (with the exception, perhaps, of parlor tricks - they matter not in day-to-day activities). A pup is a pack animal and must learn through trial and error his position within his family pack. His mother never rewards with "treats".
The promise of food is a distraction wherein the pup will concentrate on the hand or pocket and not on his owner's face and eyes. A pup that avoids eye contact will not learn and will not concentrate. A pup trained with food will appear eager but is reacting in a mechanical way, that is, he is not learning.
Training without treats reinforces the owners dominant position over the dog. A pup that learns will be eager to learn more when he is properly praised.
Pups that are prevented from destructive chewing never develop the problem. Any pup left to his own devices while the owners are away will vent his loneliness and frustration on whatever object catches his fancy. This is normal and to be expected. A pup who is crated during his owners' absence cannot indulge in such a destructive activity. The owner must keep the pup under close supervision at other times. Freedom of the house should not be granted. A pup will have to hear the word "No" many times before he learns that household objects are forbidden. Should he mouth an object, clap your hands, stamp on the floor, etc., to attract his attention. When he releases the object offer him his own approved "chewy" and praise him when he takes it.
Begging usually begins with an indulgent owner offering food from his plate or the kitchen counter. This easily leads to whining, barking, leaping at the table, etc. Never offer the pup food from your plate, table or kitchen counter. This will prevent all begging problems. Should the pup beg simply ignore him, eventually, the pup will give up and wander off in boredom.
Pups should be prevented from growling over their food especially if there are children in the household.
Sit on the floor, holding the food dish, and call the pup to you. Verbally praise him for coming to you. As the pup eats, talk to him, pet him, and perhaps throw in a treat. Have each member of the family take turns at different meal times.
If the pup should growl or indicate any defensiveness, he must be told No, then grabbed by his middle, and pulled backward away from the dish. Roll the pup onto his back and scold him. When he subsides, release him, and allow him to resume eating. Repeat if he growls again. This works for young pups.
For older pups the owner should stand near the dish with the pup on lead. Should he growl, say No firmly, and pull the dog back away from the dish, administering a leash correction. In a day or two, you may hold the dish on your lap while the dog is eating quietly.
An older dog who has developed this behaviour should not be treated as above but should be referred to a professional trainer/behaviorist.
Start immediately to teach your pup to keep all four feet on the ground. With the young pup do not encourage him to stretch up to greet you, instead, crouch down to his level, assist him in sitting, then greet him.
The pup should be taught the sit-stay. When visitors arrive the pup should be on lead and put in a sit-stay to one side of the door. The guests should be allowed to enter, told to ignore the pup, and when seated the pup should be brought on lead to meet them. The pup should be sat in front of each guest and then they can pet him. It is important that the sit-stay be mastered if the pup is to learn to keep his feet on the floor.
Growling, snapping and nipping are an attempt to gain control - to become leader of the pack.
The destructive chewer has not been taught responsible behavior and should not be rewarded with the freedom to behave so.
The food or garbage stealer has never been taught his limits.
The dog indifferent to his owners commands has learned not to respect his owner - he's not tired or bored.
The dog which incessantly demands his owners attention is over-indulged. Owners sometimes choose not to teach, preferring, instead, to "buy" the pup's love with permissiveness, over petting and coddling. Each pup naturally must find his place in the [family] pack. The owner must assume the "leader" position to provide the security the pup needs. Preventing problems is easier than solving them!
Leadership
Dogs are genetically programmed to live in packs. A dog requires leadership to give structure and security to his life. The pup's mother corrected each pup firmly, swiftly, and instantly, by using a neck shake, a clout of her paw, or by pinning the pup to the ground. She was the "boss".
In his new home the pup will fill the role of leader if none is provided. This is usually shown through growls, nips and other dominant behavior. Avoid excessive petting as only the pack leader is entitled to such demonstrations. Once a dog is trained and under control the owner can indulge in hugging without fear of spoiling him.
All members of the family must agree to behave consistently. Do not allow the pup on the couch one day and scold him the next. This is very confusing to a pup.
Socialization
At eight weeks the new puppy in the home should be accustomed to normal household sounds: the vacuum cleaner, dishwasher, TV, radio, toilet, etc. Ideally, this was begun by the breeder. Invite friends and neighbors to your home to meet the new pup. Take him for short car rides to accustom his body to the motion of a moving car and to help prevent car sickness later on.
After a couple of weeks take him everywhere you can, choosing new environments each time. Examples are a park, a school yard, a construction site, a busy sidewalk, a busy plaza. If the pup ever shows fear, do NOT pet him. He'll view this as praise for being fearful. Remain calm and let him adjust his behavior.
Praise and Discipline
As leader, use a happy, enthusiastic tone when praising your pup for good behavior, and accompany your verbal praise with petting. Praise good behavior generously. Never reward fearful behavior by "soothing" it with a soft voice and stroking. This only reinforces the behavior, from the dog's point of view, he is being rewarded.
Never pet or soothe a pup when he is aggressively threatening anyone. A full-blown case of dangerous aggression could result.
Use a calm, firm voice when disciplining. Do not plead with the pup. Discipline does not mean punishment and should not be harsh physical punishment.
Use NO to inform your pup that his actions are not appropriate. NO is an authoritative sound with the object of creating an immediate reaction. Do not use the word "no" combined with your pup's name.
OK is a happy-sounding, positive word. It gives permission and approval from you.
House Training
Dogs are den animals, and a crate is readily accepted as a pup's private place. A crate provides a secure place to prevent the pup from undesirable behavior. Since no dog likes to soil his den, house training will be simplified by using a crate. The crate should be located in your bedroom to promote bonding with your pup.
The pup will earn freedom by demonstrating his responsibility. Later, the pup can be provided with more freedom and the crate left with the door open.
As a rule, all pups will have to "go" upon waking, after eating, after drinking, during or after play or excitement, whenever they are busily circling and sniffing, and just because!
Food remains in the intestinal tract about 16 hours. Therefore, a regular feeding schedule will equate to a regular washroom schedule. Dogs free fed are eating all the time - what goes in all day, comes out all day. A feeding at 6:00 a.m. will produce elimination at 10:00 p.m. and a 6:00 p.m. feeding will produce elimination at 10:00 a.m. Adjust the feeding schedule to times you can exercise the dog.
People who work part time simply crate the pup while away. People who are at home all day can tie the pup's leash to their waist as they go about their chores, monitoring him closely to take him out when he indicates he needs to "go". People who work full time should not expect a young pup to be in his crate for 8-10 hours at a stretch.
Remember, very young puppies need to sleep a lot, crate training takes advantage of this need by putting the pup in his crate to nap. Then, he is taken outside as soon as he awakens. Walk him on leash until he goes, then praise him happily. Encourage him with an expression such as "Do your business," "Go pee," et cetera.
After elimination the pup should be given play time with feeding afterwards.
Do:
* expect a few noisy nights when the pup first comes home.
* adhere to a rigid walk-play-feed-walk schedule.
* feed on a regular schedule.
* allow peace and privacy when the pup is in his crate.
* allow the pup to sleep in your bedroom.
Don't:
* expect the pup to spend more than four hours in the crate.
* allow children to tease the pup in his crate
* leave destructible items in the crate.
* give water after 7:00 p.m.
* take the pup out of his crate if he is barking, crying, etc.
* place rugs, pillows, etc. in the crate. Use newspapers.
* also attempt to paper train. Why teach him to "go" indoors?
Biting
All pups use their teeth, just as they did in their litter, nipping or chewing to test their limits. The mother never permits the pup to nip her - she punishes swift and to the point.
Biting is usually the result of misbehavior that was never corrected. It escalates as the pup grows up thinking of himself as the leader of the pack. Corrections must be done instantly every time it occurs. Very young puppies generally respond to a piercing YIPE! and will release instantly. Another technique is the hand-over-the-muzzle grab accompanied by a firm NO and a low, menacing growl. He will understand this just as he did his mother.
For those who are a little more determined a firm, upward open-handed tap under the chin, a firm NO, and a growl will usually work. When he stops, take him to his crate and leave him alone for half an hour.
Keep a 4 inch-6 inch "grab" lead on him so he cannot escape from any correction.
Food Treats
The use of food treats to train basic commands is generally not recommended (with the exception, perhaps, of parlor tricks - they matter not in day-to-day activities). A pup is a pack animal and must learn through trial and error his position within his family pack. His mother never rewards with "treats".
The promise of food is a distraction wherein the pup will concentrate on the hand or pocket and not on his owner's face and eyes. A pup that avoids eye contact will not learn and will not concentrate. A pup trained with food will appear eager but is reacting in a mechanical way, that is, he is not learning.
Training without treats reinforces the owners dominant position over the dog. A pup that learns will be eager to learn more when he is properly praised.
Chewing
Pups that are prevented from destructive chewing never develop the problem. Any pup left to his own devices while the owners are away will vent his loneliness and frustration on whatever object catches his fancy. This is normal and to be expected. A pup who is crated during his owners' absence cannot indulge in such a destructive activity. The owner must keep the pup under close supervision at other times. Freedom of the house should not be granted. A pup will have to hear the word "No" many times before he learns that household objects are forbidden. Should he mouth an object, clap your hands, stamp on the floor, etc., to attract his attention. When he releases the object offer him his own approved "chewy" and praise him when he takes it.
Begging
Begging usually begins with an indulgent owner offering food from his plate or the kitchen counter. This easily leads to whining, barking, leaping at the table, etc. Never offer the pup food from your plate, table or kitchen counter. This will prevent all begging problems. Should the pup beg simply ignore him, eventually, the pup will give up and wander off in boredom.
Growling over Food
Pups should be prevented from growling over their food especially if there are children in the household.
Sit on the floor, holding the food dish, and call the pup to you. Verbally praise him for coming to you. As the pup eats, talk to him, pet him, and perhaps throw in a treat. Have each member of the family take turns at different meal times.
If the pup should growl or indicate any defensiveness, he must be told No, then grabbed by his middle, and pulled backward away from the dish. Roll the pup onto his back and scold him. When he subsides, release him, and allow him to resume eating. Repeat if he growls again. This works for young pups.
For older pups the owner should stand near the dish with the pup on lead. Should he growl, say No firmly, and pull the dog back away from the dish, administering a leash correction. In a day or two, you may hold the dish on your lap while the dog is eating quietly.
An older dog who has developed this behaviour should not be treated as above but should be referred to a professional trainer/behaviorist.
Jumping on People
Start immediately to teach your pup to keep all four feet on the ground. With the young pup do not encourage him to stretch up to greet you, instead, crouch down to his level, assist him in sitting, then greet him.
The pup should be taught the sit-stay. When visitors arrive the pup should be on lead and put in a sit-stay to one side of the door. The guests should be allowed to enter, told to ignore the pup, and when seated the pup should be brought on lead to meet them. The pup should be sat in front of each guest and then they can pet him. It is important that the sit-stay be mastered if the pup is to learn to keep his feet on the floor.
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