Sunday, May 30, 2010
Saturday, May 29, 2010
The Benefit Of Socializing Your German Shepherd
Of course it is best if your dog has had some sort of basic training. It is important for you to have control of your dog in these situations. Once your dog has had basic obedience training you can more easily allow them to socialize with other dogs. You will have total control over them, thus avoiding any unpleasant mishaps. As you take your dog to more places, you will start to see an even better behaved dog. More socializing leads to a more manageable dog.
Another benefit to socializing your dog is less boredom. With the proper amount of interaction with other dogs and people, your dog should be more content at home and less likely to attempt escaping or running around unnecessarily.
Giving your dog a variety of experiences with different situations is an important part of being a responsible owner. Also, by being together in a variety of places and social interactions your bond deepens. So take your dog to as many places as possible. Allow your dog to develop into a confident individual and your relationship will blossom
Three weeks to three months is a critical age in socializing your puppy
Tell him "No," show him the object and let him know there is nothing to be afraid of. You may need to give him a touch that matches your dog's own intensity (mocking a mother dog). Puppies like to play. They chew on everything including your fingers and legs - sometimes with a playful growl. Do not confuse this normal, natural behavior with the defensive growl of fear.
Take your puppy out often. Show him all kinds of sites, sounds, people and animals. Once your dog has had all of his shots, you can bring him to a dog park. Dogs should be taken for a pack walk before getting to the dog park, in order for them to be in a more sociable state of mind. Be careful when introducing your puppy to other dogs and animals. Know your dog's breed traits and use your best judgment. For instance, if you know your neighbor’s dog is dog-aggressive, take your puppy to the park instead to do your doggie socializing. If you know your puppy’s breed has been known to kill cats, take extra precaution when cats are present. Always correct your puppy if he shows any signs of aggression or domination towards another animal or person. Do not laugh it off as being cute.
If there is a baby in the house, at the first encounter, carefully let your puppy smell the baby, than ask the dog for space, meaning, ask the dog to back away and stay away, as the baby claims HIS or HER area. This will make your baby higher in the pack order than the dog and the start of the bond between your new dog and your child. Teach your children to respect the puppy, and teach your puppy to respect your child. NEVER tolerate growling even with small dogs. Growling is a sign that your dog thinks he is Top Dog.
Three weeks to three months is a critical age in socializing your puppy. This is when most of his behaviors are being formed. For this reason it is important to find a breeder who takes time to socialize their puppies. When you get your puppy or adult dog home, continue their socialization. If the breeder did not do a good job socializing the pup or if your adult dog is not well socialized, with some work on your part, you can change their behavior. Introduce them to all types of sights and sounds, correcting them at the right moment if they should begin to act out in an inappropriate manner. For a dog, life is all about the moment, and you can, at anytime change the way they view their surroundings. In order for you to do this, you yourself will need to be in a firm and confident mind frame. Dogs can read human emotions and if you are anything but, you can set your dog off. No words need to be spoken for this to happen, they can feel what you feel, you cannot hide it. They need you to be strong minded, as dogs instinctively need a strong pack leader to be mentally stable. A dog will feed off of the way a human feels. If you are unstable, anxious, worried, nervous, scared, hyper etc... your dog will feel this. There reactions to a humans instability will vary. It may empower them and they may try to take over, to "help" both of you survive. Or it may make them mentally unstable, becoming fearful, or nervous. Fearful dogs, sometimes act out with aggression. Dogs NEED a strong minded leader.
So while you take your dog out and introduce him to all types of new sights and sounds, pay honest attention to the way you feel as well, because your dog already knows.
The German Shepherds Dog
The colors of German Shepherds are black and tan (with the tan portion ranging from a light cream to a deep red-depending upon the individual dog); solid black; white; bi-color (a black dog with tan legs); black and silver; blue (which looks like a very muted, grayish black and tan); sable. In a sable, just the tip of each hair is colored. Their almond-shaped eyes are medium to dark brown, and they have a black nose.
Double-coated shepherds have a soft wooly undercoat and an outer coat of longer, harsher guard hairs. Shepherds can be coated normally or can be long coated or open coated. Long coats have about the same coat as a Belgian Tervuren. Open coats have no undercoat and usually have softer guard hairs. Even with the double coated German Shepherds, it is recommended that they reside indoors as a family member.
Shepherds should be brushed or raked daily to reduce shedding--which can be substantial. Although they shed year round, shepherds shed most heavily twice a year when blowing their coat (lose and replace the undercoat). To prevent dry skin and itchiness, shepherds should be bathed no more than every 4-6 weeks.
Although one or both ears on some adult shepherds don't stand, their large ears usually stand naturally-not cropped. Their ears hang down when they are born and begin to go up at approximately 2-4 months. They may flop back down when heavy-duty teething begins around 4-6 months of age. The tail should hang down to the ground when they dog is at rest and should be carried in a slight upward curve when the dog is in motion. Although not common, some shepherds have a ring tail (carried in a ring).
German Shepherds are very intelligent, responsive dogs. Originally bred to make most of their own decisions as herding dogs, German Shepherds have the ability to think for themselves and, therefore, will assume the leadership role if not trained in obedience and given firm rules that are not to be broken. They take to obedience training quite well and excel as guide dogs, assistance dogs for the physically challenged, search and rescue dogs, police patrol dogs, narcotics dogs, agility dogs, etc.
Because they are territorial and protective, German Shepherds are natural guard dogs. They instinctively protect their home and family from danger. Because they bark when they hear anyone or anything, they need to be supervised in densely populated areas to avoid disturbing neighbors. Games of retrieval are a good way to distract them and give them exercise when in a fenced yard. When adult shepherds are adopted, they should be kept under close supervision for about a month as they may try, out of loyalty, to escape in search of former owners before bonding to you.
German Shepherds are energetic dogs and need routine exercise. A brisk half hour walk about twice a day is needed unless they are given a lot of interactive playtime by their owners on a daily basis. If given sufficient exercise, shepherds adapt well to apartment living.
They need to be socialized well and early in lots of different physical environments. They are naturally aloof with strangers, and some can be a bit suspicious of strangers if not exposed to people outside the family at an early age. Some shepherds are overly aggressive, and some are very shy. Although it can be genetic, this usually is due to poor or no training. A stable shepherd is a true best friend--extremely loyal, intelligent, affectionate, protective and responsive.
Properly socialized, shepherds are usually excellent with children, affectionate and loving with their families, accepting of family friends, aloof with strangers, and good with cats if raised with them. Some shepherds may show some dog aggression--especially males toward other males. Shepherds need a lot of human companionship. They should never be chained outside or kenneled as they will suffer emotionally.
Possible health problems include hip dysplasia, elbow dysplasia, skin allergies, bloat, and spinal myelopathy (incurable paralysis of the hind legs). Hypothyroidism (low thyroid function) is common in German Shepherds although they usually do not exhibit the traditional symptoms of excess weight, laziness or sluggishness, or coat and skin problems. Thyroid problems may not occur until they are at least 4 years old. Annual blood tests are recommended to help prevent associated effects on their immune system.
German Shepherds usually live approximately 10-12 years though many have lived to 14 or 15.
The Proper Way To Feed Your Dog
Dogs, Lions and Tigers are all carnivores and in nature, none attempt to live on dry food. However, many Vets are teaching their clients to feed only dry food. The stomachs and intestines of dogs prey contain predigested vegetation and provide the meat eaters with much needed minerals, enzymes, and chlorophyll and other nutrients necessary for excellent health and longevity. Most of the Carnivores like dogs don't possess the enzyme cellulose to digest Cellulose (fiber) like Herbivores, such as rabbits, deer and other small prey, and carnivores depend on these fresh kills to provide these much needed nutrients. Dogs that are not confined will hunt small game and satisfy their natural need for these complex nutrients. When fed as we instruct at Lanes House Of Shepherds, your dog will never have a 'doggy' odor!!Our Domesticated Dogs have lived off our table, and around our Campfires for Thousands of years. They have shared our foods from our tables containing Cooked Vegetables as well as Yogurt, Cheeses, and Meats and they have thrived. Until very recently Dry Kibble Dog Food could not be found in most third world countries, consequently, most dogs living in less developed countries eat food from their owners tables. I'm convinced that this natural food diet is the reason those dogs have longer longevity than domesticated dogs living on a totally dry kibble food diet as regularly recommended by Veterinarians.
The diet we feed our puppies and older dogs consists of Meat (chicken, turkey or canned Mackerel or other meats low in fat), Eggs, Vegetables, Cod liver oil, Yogurt, Kelp, and Garlic. We find that top premium pet foods have most of this already mixed in so all you have to do is pour. There dry food contain no Soy, No By-Products (in other words, no Hair, Hooves, Manure, Horns or Chicken Feathers), no preservatives like BHA or BHT, Ethoxyquin, etc. The most common question/comment from first visitors is: Why is there no bad odor here? Or Why don't these dogs smell/have a doggy odor?' Try our diet plan for your pets and you will see great overall health, beautiful coats, no mange or skin problems and dogs that don't stink.
Top Premium dog foods have been formulated using only fresh, natural, whole ingredients from each of the five food groups.
Naturally nutritious fresh chicken and turkey meat, plus high quality chicken meal, provide the foundation for great taste. But we didn't stop there. Fresh whole milk, cottage cheese and whole clove garlic add natural vitamins and flavor. Alfalfa sprouts help satisfy your pet's natural urge to graze. Natural cold-pressed sunflower oil provides the high quality fatty acids needed for healthy skin and a shiny hair coat.
Premium dog foods recipes are based on the most advanced research in animal health. The latest findings in orthomolecular medicine (the study of optimal amounts of substances, especially vitamins, found in the body to achieve optimal health) convinced us to increase the levels of disease fighting antioxidants - Vitamin A, Vitamin C, and Vitamin E - in top premium dog food formula.
Preservatives? Some top premium dog food is preserved naturally with vitamins C and E... and nothing else.
Farm Fresh Ingredients
Top premium dog foods contains only fresh, natural, whole ingredients from each of the five major food groups - providing a balanced, nutritious and varietal diet for your pet.innovative cooking methods combine fresh turkey and chicken meat, fresh fruit and vegetables and a variety of natural whole ground grains to create pet-foods unequaled in healthful, nutritional benefits.
Compare Top Premium dog foods found in The Whole Dog Journal Top Dog Foods For Total Wellness to any other pet-food. We're sure you'll agree that there's a healthy, significant difference.
Health Foods from the Basic 5
Petfoods prepared with a wide variety of healthful ingredients form each of the five basic food groups: fresh lean meats, wholesome fruits and vegetables, natural whole grains, vitamin-rich potatoes, milk and cottage cheese.
Variety is the key to meeting your pet's many nutritional needs. Innova's healthy mix of nutritious ingredients assures a balanced and enjoyable meal every time.
The Dairy Group -- Cottage cheese provides plenty of nutrient-rich calcium, protein, vitamins A and D, and B vitamins.
The Protein Group -- Protein is an integral part of your pet's diet. And fresh turkey, chicken and herring meats bring more to the food dish than just good flavor - they are lean, excellent sources of protein. High quality meat protein provides all the essential amino acids required for the proper nutrition of both dogs and cats.
The Vegetable Group -- A bounty of fresh vegetables are found in premium pet-foods: carrots, Idaho potatoes, alfalfa sprouts and whole clove Gilroy-grown garlic (high in selenium). These vegetables add the antioxidant vitamins A and C, carbohydrates, fiber and various minerals to the diet. And because these vegetables are fresh, whole, and not pre-processed, the flavors and most of the important nutrients - including the "protector" antioxidants - are locked in.
The Fruit Group -- There's now a new twist to the old axiom about apples: "An apple a day keeps the veterinarian away!" Apples - and the nutrients in them - help your pet stay healthy. The fresh, whole apples used in some top premium pet-foods provide important "protector" nutrients, as well as plenty of carbohydrates and fiber, essential for your pet's good health. The antioxidant vitamin C helps to form healthy new cells and heal wounds. Potassium promotes neuromuscular development. And the antioxidants beta-carotene and vitamin A aid in good vision, bone and tooth development, and building resistance to infections.
The Grain Group -- All of the grains in Most top premium petfoods are natural whole grains, not grain fractions such as bran, gluten, flour, or mids. Healthful whole grains are important sources of B vitamins, carbohydrates, iron, fiber, and selenium. Nutritious barley and brown and white rices provide important complex carbohydrates to support pet activity and exercise.
Look at top premium dog foods Ingredients:
Turkey
Chicken
Chicken Meal
Herring
Apples
Garlic
Potatoes
Alfalfa Sprouts
Carrots
Cottage Cheese
Milk
Eggs
In addition to these fresh ingredients, top Premium dog foods contains:
Whole Ground Barley and Whole Ground Brown & White Rice
These are quality grain sources of highly digestible carbohydrates, not pre-processed grain fractions from other industries.
Sunflower Oil and Chicken Fat
These are ultra high-quality sources of fat... chosen for their skin & coat properties and are rich in linoleic acid and omega 3 fatty acids!
Chicken Meal and Herring
Premium dog foods contain ground chicken meat & whitefish that provide high quality, highly digestible protein.
Lactobacillus Acidophilus, Lactobacillus Casei, Streptococcus Faecium, Lactobacillus Plantarum
These important probiotics are added to help prevent disease and sickness, especially critical for dogs and cats that are under stress from shipping, showing, surgery, and kennel stays.
Vitamins E, C & A (Beta-Carotene), Selenium, Zinc, Manganese
These antioxidants play a vital role in protecting body cells from the damage caused by chemicals and environmental pollutants such as cigarette smoke, exhaust fumes and smog.
When comparing premium dog foods to your favorite brand, please take special care to notice the following ingredients which top premium dog food Products refuses to use: Meat Meal, Animal Fat, Poultry By-Products, Soybean Meal, Rice Gluten, Wheat Mids, Peanut Hulls, Rice Bran, Wheat Flour, Wheat Bran, Rice Flour, BHA, Ethoxyquin, Artificial Colors or Flavors, or any other substandard, low quality, by-product from human food processing.
What you and your Puppy need to know to live together.
Growling, snapping and nipping are an attempt to gain control - to become leader of the pack.
The destructive chewer has not been taught responsible behavior and should not be rewarded with the freedom to behave so.
The food or garbage stealer has never been taught his limits.
The dog indifferent to his owners commands has learned not to respect his owner - he's not tired or bored.
The dog which incessantly demands his owners attention is over-indulged. Owners sometimes choose not to teach, preferring, instead, to "buy" the pup's love with permissiveness, over petting and coddling. Each pup naturally must find his place in the [family] pack. The owner must assume the "leader" position to provide the security the pup needs. Preventing problems is easier than solving them!
Dogs are genetically programmed to live in packs. A dog requires leadership to give structure and security to his life. The pup's mother corrected each pup firmly, swiftly, and instantly, by using a neck shake, a clout of her paw, or by pinning the pup to the ground. She was the "boss".
In his new home the pup will fill the role of leader if none is provided. This is usually shown through growls, nips and other dominant behavior. Avoid excessive petting as only the pack leader is entitled to such demonstrations. Once a dog is trained and under control the owner can indulge in hugging without fear of spoiling him.
All members of the family must agree to behave consistently. Do not allow the pup on the couch one day and scold him the next. This is very confusing to a pup.
At eight weeks the new puppy in the home should be accustomed to normal household sounds: the vacuum cleaner, dishwasher, TV, radio, toilet, etc. Ideally, this was begun by the breeder. Invite friends and neighbors to your home to meet the new pup. Take him for short car rides to accustom his body to the motion of a moving car and to help prevent car sickness later on.
After a couple of weeks take him everywhere you can, choosing new environments each time. Examples are a park, a school yard, a construction site, a busy sidewalk, a busy plaza. If the pup ever shows fear, do NOT pet him. He'll view this as praise for being fearful. Remain calm and let him adjust his behavior.
As leader, use a happy, enthusiastic tone when praising your pup for good behavior, and accompany your verbal praise with petting. Praise good behavior generously. Never reward fearful behavior by "soothing" it with a soft voice and stroking. This only reinforces the behavior, from the dog's point of view, he is being rewarded.
Never pet or soothe a pup when he is aggressively threatening anyone. A full-blown case of dangerous aggression could result.
Use a calm, firm voice when disciplining. Do not plead with the pup. Discipline does not mean punishment and should not be harsh physical punishment.
Use NO to inform your pup that his actions are not appropriate. NO is an authoritative sound with the object of creating an immediate reaction. Do not use the word "no" combined with your pup's name.
OK is a happy-sounding, positive word. It gives permission and approval from you.
Dogs are den animals, and a crate is readily accepted as a pup's private place. A crate provides a secure place to prevent the pup from undesirable behavior. Since no dog likes to soil his den, house training will be simplified by using a crate. The crate should be located in your bedroom to promote bonding with your pup.
The pup will earn freedom by demonstrating his responsibility. Later, the pup can be provided with more freedom and the crate left with the door open.
As a rule, all pups will have to "go" upon waking, after eating, after drinking, during or after play or excitement, whenever they are busily circling and sniffing, and just because!
Food remains in the intestinal tract about 16 hours. Therefore, a regular feeding schedule will equate to a regular washroom schedule. Dogs free fed are eating all the time - what goes in all day, comes out all day. A feeding at 6:00 a.m. will produce elimination at 10:00 p.m. and a 6:00 p.m. feeding will produce elimination at 10:00 a.m. Adjust the feeding schedule to times you can exercise the dog.
People who work part time simply crate the pup while away. People who are at home all day can tie the pup's leash to their waist as they go about their chores, monitoring him closely to take him out when he indicates he needs to "go". People who work full time should not expect a young pup to be in his crate for 8-10 hours at a stretch.
Remember, very young puppies need to sleep a lot, crate training takes advantage of this need by putting the pup in his crate to nap. Then, he is taken outside as soon as he awakens. Walk him on leash until he goes, then praise him happily. Encourage him with an expression such as "Do your business," "Go pee," et cetera.
After elimination the pup should be given play time with feeding afterwards.
Do:
* expect a few noisy nights when the pup first comes home.
* adhere to a rigid walk-play-feed-walk schedule.
* feed on a regular schedule.
* allow peace and privacy when the pup is in his crate.
* allow the pup to sleep in your bedroom.
Don't:
* expect the pup to spend more than four hours in the crate.
* allow children to tease the pup in his crate
* leave destructible items in the crate.
* give water after 7:00 p.m.
* take the pup out of his crate if he is barking, crying, etc.
* place rugs, pillows, etc. in the crate. Use newspapers.
* also attempt to paper train. Why teach him to "go" indoors?
All pups use their teeth, just as they did in their litter, nipping or chewing to test their limits. The mother never permits the pup to nip her - she punishes swift and to the point.
Biting is usually the result of misbehavior that was never corrected. It escalates as the pup grows up thinking of himself as the leader of the pack. Corrections must be done instantly every time it occurs. Very young puppies generally respond to a piercing YIPE! and will release instantly. Another technique is the hand-over-the-muzzle grab accompanied by a firm NO and a low, menacing growl. He will understand this just as he did his mother.
For those who are a little more determined a firm, upward open-handed tap under the chin, a firm NO, and a growl will usually work. When he stops, take him to his crate and leave him alone for half an hour.
Keep a 4 inch-6 inch "grab" lead on him so he cannot escape from any correction.
The use of food treats to train basic commands is generally not recommended (with the exception, perhaps, of parlor tricks - they matter not in day-to-day activities). A pup is a pack animal and must learn through trial and error his position within his family pack. His mother never rewards with "treats".
The promise of food is a distraction wherein the pup will concentrate on the hand or pocket and not on his owner's face and eyes. A pup that avoids eye contact will not learn and will not concentrate. A pup trained with food will appear eager but is reacting in a mechanical way, that is, he is not learning.
Training without treats reinforces the owners dominant position over the dog. A pup that learns will be eager to learn more when he is properly praised.
Pups that are prevented from destructive chewing never develop the problem. Any pup left to his own devices while the owners are away will vent his loneliness and frustration on whatever object catches his fancy. This is normal and to be expected. A pup who is crated during his owners' absence cannot indulge in such a destructive activity. The owner must keep the pup under close supervision at other times. Freedom of the house should not be granted. A pup will have to hear the word "No" many times before he learns that household objects are forbidden. Should he mouth an object, clap your hands, stamp on the floor, etc., to attract his attention. When he releases the object offer him his own approved "chewy" and praise him when he takes it.
Begging usually begins with an indulgent owner offering food from his plate or the kitchen counter. This easily leads to whining, barking, leaping at the table, etc. Never offer the pup food from your plate, table or kitchen counter. This will prevent all begging problems. Should the pup beg simply ignore him, eventually, the pup will give up and wander off in boredom.
Pups should be prevented from growling over their food especially if there are children in the household.
Sit on the floor, holding the food dish, and call the pup to you. Verbally praise him for coming to you. As the pup eats, talk to him, pet him, and perhaps throw in a treat. Have each member of the family take turns at different meal times.
If the pup should growl or indicate any defensiveness, he must be told No, then grabbed by his middle, and pulled backward away from the dish. Roll the pup onto his back and scold him. When he subsides, release him, and allow him to resume eating. Repeat if he growls again. This works for young pups.
For older pups the owner should stand near the dish with the pup on lead. Should he growl, say No firmly, and pull the dog back away from the dish, administering a leash correction. In a day or two, you may hold the dish on your lap while the dog is eating quietly.
An older dog who has developed this behaviour should not be treated as above but should be referred to a professional trainer/behaviorist.
Start immediately to teach your pup to keep all four feet on the ground. With the young pup do not encourage him to stretch up to greet you, instead, crouch down to his level, assist him in sitting, then greet him.
The pup should be taught the sit-stay. When visitors arrive the pup should be on lead and put in a sit-stay to one side of the door. The guests should be allowed to enter, told to ignore the pup, and when seated the pup should be brought on lead to meet them. The pup should be sat in front of each guest and then they can pet him. It is important that the sit-stay be mastered if the pup is to learn to keep his feet on the floor.
Things You Need To Know Before Getting A Dog!!!
Early Puppy TrainingNipping, chewing, digging, barking, mounting, etc. are all normal dog behavior but, if left uncorrected, can lead to problems. Dogs learn each and every day whether it be good behavior or bad behavior.
As more and more people adopt or buy multiple dogs, we come across a common problem of inter dog aggression developing inside the house. Most of the time it is caused by the dogs not yet forming correct pack order or human not being the pack leader within the house.
In the first case, the dogs simply can’t figure out who's higher in pack order between them. Best way to correct this is to help them in every way you can to establish a stable order. A lot of times when a new dog is brought into the house the older dog doesn’t want to give up its place.
It is the owner’s responsibility to help the animals establish their pack order as fast as possible. For this to happen it is important to show the weaker and younger dog that the older member of the pack is higher. If two dogs are fighting each other then correct the younger dog even if the fight was started by the older dog. Feed, walk, and play with the younger dog after you have done so with the older dog.
Give older dog more attention, bones, and toys, but make sure not to neglect the younger dog completely. When the dogs establish their place they will stop fighting. This may change when the younger dog reaches a certain age of maturity and will want to assert its place in the family, so one needs to keep a close eye on both dogs. If the problem persists or you are not seeing the results please seek professional help!
If the dogs are relatively similar in age and size, watch them for a week or two. Find out which dog seems to be a leader and do the things listed beforehand as if this leader is older dog. The dog who is a leader will always go in first through the door, jump in the car, get to food when called for dinner, etc.
In the second case it is extremely important to get dogs to respect you. The moment you become a leader the dogs will start to respond to you in a completely different light. This is done mainly by working with your dogs in obedience training rings, either alone or with instructor.
Do it everyday for 10-15 minutes. Don’t let dogs push you over, like getting on the couch and pushing you out of it. Of course if the problem is serious enough when dogs try to bite you, call a professional to assist you.
Parents have an obligation to monitor all child-dog interaction, until both child and dog have learned to play nicely together. There will be times when you will have to protect the pup from children and vice-versa.
Do not leave children alone with a new pup. Inevitably, the pup will view small children as litter mates and will nip.
Do not allow aggressive play or tug-of-war with the pet puppy. This can lead to aggressive behavior and biting. Instead, throw a ball for the pup to chase.
Do not allow the pup to join in running games with children. The pup will be encouraged to think of children as "prey".
Tell children to leave a sleeping puppy alone. Dogs instinctively do not like surprises, and a serious incident could occur.
Encourage children to think of the puppy as a sensitive, living thing, with needs and desires. It is not a toy.
A trained dog is not likely to be spoiled. Through training he has learned to look for leadership, has learned trust and obedience. Indulging in bad behavior, catering to his every desire, allowing nipping, begging, stealing from plates, barking, etc.is another matter.
The irritating, unpleasant dog has become "leader of the pack", while the trained dog develops into a companion free to be with you wherever you go.
Growling, snapping and nipping are an attempt to gain control - to become leader of the pack.
The destructive chewer has not been taught responsible behavior and should not be rewarded with the freedom to behave so.
The food or garbage stealer has never been taught his limits.
The dog indifferent to his owners commands has learned not to respect his owner - he's not tired or bored.
The dog which incessantly demands his owners attention is over-indulged. Owners sometimes choose not to teach, preferring, instead, to "buy" the pup's love with permissiveness, over petting and coddling.
Each pup naturally must find his place in the [family] pack. The owner must assume the "leader" position to provide the security the pup needs. Preventing problems is easier than solving them!
Dogs are genetically programmed to live in packs. A dog requires leadership to give structure and security to his life. The pup's mother corrected each pup firmly, swiftly, and instantly, by using a neck shake, a clout of her paw, or by pinning the pup to the ground. She was the "boss".
In his new home the pup will fill the role of leader if none is provided. This is usually shown through growls, nips and other dominant behavior.
Avoid excessive petting as only the pack leader is entitled to such demonstrations. Once a dog is trained and under control the owner can indulge in hugging without fear of spoiling him.
All members of the family must agree to behave consistently. Do not allow the pup on the couch one day and scold him the next. This is very confusing to a pup.
At eight weeks the new puppy in the home should be accustomed to normal household sounds: the vacuum cleaner, dishwasher, TV, radio, toilet, etc. Ideally, this was begun by the breeder.
Invite friends and neighbors to your home to meet the new pup. Take him for short car rides to accustom his body to the motion of a moving car and to help prevent car sickness later on.
After a couple of weeks take him everywhere you can, choosing new environments each time. Examples are a park, a school yard, a construction site, a busy sidewalk, a busy plaza.
If the pup ever shows fear, do not pet him. He'll view this as praise for being fearful. Remain calm and let him adjust his behavior.
As leader, use a happy, enthusiastic tone when praising your pup for good behavior, and accompany your verbal praise with petting. Praise good behavior generously.
Never reward fearful behavior by "soothing" it with a soft voice and stroking. This only reinforces the behavior, from the dog's point of view, he is being rewarded.
Never pet or soothe a pup when he is aggressively threatening anyone. A full-blown case of dangerous aggression could result.
Use a calm, firm voice when disciplining. Do not plead with the pup. Discipline does not mean punishment and should not be harsh physical punishment.
Use NO to inform your pup that his actions are not appropriate. NO is an authoritative sound with the object of creating an immediate reaction.
Do not use the word "no" combined with your pup's name.
OK is a happy-sounding, positive word. It gives permission and approval from you.
Dogs are den animals, and a crate is readily accepted as a pup's private place. A crate provides a secure place to prevent the pup from undesirable behavior.
Since no dog likes to soil his den, house training will be simplified by using a crate. The crate should be located in your bedroom to promote bonding with your pup.
The pup will earn freedom by demonstrating his responsibility. Later, the pup can be provided with more freedom and the crate left with the door open.
As a rule, all pups will have to "go" upon waking, after eating, after drinking, during or after play or excitement, whenever they are busily circling and sniffing, and just because!
Food remains in the intestinal tract about 16 hours. Therefore, a regular feeding schedule will equate to a regular bathroom schedule. Dogs free fed are eating all the time - what goes in all day, comes out all day.
A feeding at 6:00 a.m. will produce elimination at 10:00 p.m. and a 6:00 p.m. feeding will produce elimination at 10:00 a.m. Adjust the feeding schedule to times you can exercise the dog.
People who work part time simply crate the pup while away. People who are at home all day can tie the pup's leash to their waist as they go about their chores, monitoring him closely to take him out when he indicates he needs to "go".
People who work full time should not expect a young pup to be in his crate for 8-10 hours at a stretch.
Remember, very young puppies need to sleep a lot, crate training takes advantage of this need by putting the pup in his crate to nap.
Then, he is taken outside as soon as he awakens. Walk him on leash until he goes, then praise him happily. Encourage him with an expression such as "Do your business," "Go pee," et cetera.
After elimination the pup should be given play time with feeding afterwards.
Do:
* expect a few noisy nights when the pup first comes home.
* adhere to a rigid walk-play-feed-walk schedule.
* feed on a regular schedule.
* allow peace and privacy when the pup is in his crate.
* allow the pup to sleep in your bedroom.
Don't:
* expect the pup to spend more than four hours in the crate.
* allow children to tease the pup in his crate
* leave destructible items in the crate.
* give water after 7:00 p.m.
* take the pup out of his crate if he is barking, crying, etc.
* place rugs, pillows, etc. in the crate. Use newspapers.
* also attempt to paper train. Why teach him to "go" indoors?
All pups use their teeth, just as they did in their litter, nipping or chewing to test their limits. The mother never permits the pup to nip her - she punishes swift and to the point.
Biting is usually the result of misbehavior that was never corrected. It escalates as the pup grows up thinking of himself as the leader of the pack.
Corrections must be done instantly every time it occurs. Very young puppies generally respond to a piercing YIPE! and will release instantly.
Another technique is the hand-over-the-muzzle grab accompanied by a firm NO and a low, menacing growl. He will understand this just as he did his mother.
For those who are a little more determined a firm, upward open-handed tap under the chin, a firm NO, and a growl will usually work. When he stops, take him to his crate and leave him alone for half an hour.
Keep a 4 inch-6 inch "grab" lead on him so he cannot escape from any correction.
The use of food treats to train basic commands is generally not recommended (with the exception, perhaps, of parlor tricks - they matter not in day-to-day activities).
A pup is a pack animal and must learn through trial and error his position within his family pack. His mother never rewards with "treats".
The promise of food is a distraction wherein the pup will concentrate on the hand or pocket and not on his owner's face and eyes.
A pup that avoids eye contact will not learn and will not concentrate. A pup trained with food will appear eager but is reacting in a mechanical way, that is, he is not learning.
Training without treats reinforces the owners dominant position over the dog. A pup that learns will be eager to learn more when he is properly praised.
Pups that are prevented from destructive chewing never develop the problem. Any pup left to his own devices while the owners are away will vent his loneliness and frustration on whatever object catches his fancy. This is normal and to be expected.
A pup who is crated during his owners' absence cannot indulge in such a destructive activity. The owner must keep the pup under close supervision at other times. Freedom of the house should not be granted. A pup will have to hear the word "No" many times before he learns that household objects are forbidden.
Should he mouth an object, clap your hands, stamp on the floor, etc., to attract his attention. When he releases the object offer him his own approved "chew toy" and praise him when he takes it.
Begging usually begins with an indulgent owner offering food from his plate or the kitchen counter. This easily leads to whining, barking, leaping at the table, etc.
Never offer the pup food from your plate, table or kitchen counter. This will prevent all begging problems. Should the pup beg simply ignore him, eventually, the pup will give up and wander off in boredom.
Pups should be prevented from growling over their food especially if there are children in the household.
Sit on the floor, holding the food dish, and call the pup to you. Verbally praise him for coming to you. As the pup eats, talk to him, pet him, and perhaps throw in a treat. Have each member of the family take turns at different meal times.
If the pup should growl or indicate any defensiveness, he must be told No, then grabbed by his middle, and pulled backward away from the dish.
Roll the pup onto his back and scold him. When he subsides, release him, and allow him to resume eating. Repeat if he growls again. This works for young pups.
For older pups the owner should stand near the dish with the pup on lead. Should he growl, say No firmly, and pull the dog back away from the dish, administering a leash correction.
In a day or two, you may hold the dish on your lap while the dog is eating quietly.
An older dog who has developed this behavior should not be treated as above but should be referred to a professional trainer/behaviorist.
Start immediately to teach your pup to keep all four feet on the ground. With the young pup do not encourage him to stretch up to greet you, instead, crouch down to his level, assist him in sitting, then greet him.
The pup should be taught the sit-stay. When visitors arrive the pup should be on lead and put in a sit-stay to one side of the door. The guests should be allowed to enter, told to ignore the pup, and when seated the pup should be brought on lead to meet them.
The pup should be sat in front of each guest and then they can pet him. It is important that the sit-stay be mastered if the pup is to learn to keep his feet on the floor.
This Is How You Keep Your Dog Healthy Feed Your Dog Healthy Food!!
The topic of dog food is a heated one amongst dog owners. Some people believe that dog food is dog food, and buy the cheapest brand available, because, well, their dog is doing just fine, thank you! There are others that believe the most expensive brand is better because it costs more, so it must be, right? Neither of these people are correct. Saying "dog food is dog food" would be like saying "McDonalds food or TV dinners are equivalent to a meal at an expensive restaurant". However, saying that "the most expensive brand is the best just because it costs more" is like saying that a $10 hamburger and fries meal at a restaurant is more nutritious than a $2.99 Happy Meal."
The key to choosing the right dog food is to know how to read the label. The most expensive food isn't always the best, but a store-brand is most certainly not as good as a holistic, all-natural brand either. In this post, I will attempt to give you some insight as to how to read a dog food label, and what to look for and avoid when making your choice.
Price really shouldn't be a factor, because after you've been feeding a better-quality food for a month or two, you'll begin to notice that your dog will require less of the better food since it will be more nutritious, so you'll be feeding him less. As a result, the amount that you end up paying for the better food usually equals out to about what you were paying for not-so-good food before. However, just paying more for a dog food does not make it better. Take Science Diet, (or any of the Hill's brand foods) for example; Hill's foods are fairly expensive, but in reality, their foods are no better than the brands you can buy in the grocery store. Here's a visual for you:
These are the ingredients listings for Science Diet, Iams, Pedigree, and Purina ONE, not in this order, however. Can you tell the difference?
1. Chicken, corn meal, ground grain sorghum, ground wheat, chicken by-product meal, soybean meal, animal fat (preserved with mixed tocopherols and citric acid), corn gluten meal, brewers rice, chicken liver flavor, vegetable oil, dried egg product, flaxseed, DL-methionine, preserved with mixed tocopherols and citric acid, minerals (potassium chloride, salt, calcium carbonate, ferrous sulfate, zinc oxide, copper sulfate, manganous oxide, calcium iodate, sodium selenite), rosemary extract, beta-carotene, vitamins (choline chloride, vitamin A supplement, vitamin D3 supplement, vitamin E supplement, L-ascorbyl-2-polyphosphate (a source of vitamin C), niacin, thiamine mononitrate, calcium pantothenate, pyridoxine hydrochloride, riboflavin, folic acid, biotin, vitamin B12 supplement).
2. Chicken, brewers rice, whole grain corn, corn gluten meal, poultry by-product meal (natural source of glucosamine), whole grain wheat, animal fat preserved with mixed-tocopherols (form of Vitamin E), animal digest, chicken cartilage (natural source of glucosamine), dicalcium phosphate, salt, malted barley flour, potassium chloride, calcium carbonate, choline chloride, L-Lysine monohydrochloride, zinc sulfate, Vitamin E supplement, ferrous sulfate, manganese sulfate, niacin, Vitamin A supplement, calcium pantothenate, thiamine mononitrate, copper sulfate, riboflavin supplement, Vitamin B-12 supplement, pyridoxine hydrochloride, garlic oil, folic acid, Vitamin D-3 supplement, calcium iodate, biotin, menadione sodium bisulfite complex (source of Vitamin K activity), sodium selenite.
3. Chicken, Corn Meal, Ground Whole Grain Sorghum, Chicken By-Product Meal, Fish Meal (source of fish oil), Chicken Fat (preserved with mixed Tocopherols, a source of Vitamin E, and Citric Acid), Dried Beet Pulp (sugar removed), Natural Chicken Flavor, Potassium Chloride, Dried Egg Product, Brewers Dried Yeast, Salt, Flax Meal, Sodium Hexametaphosphate, Vitamins (Vitamin E Supplement, Ascorbic Acid, Vitamin A Acetate, Calcium Pantothenate, Biotin, Thiamine Mononitrate (source of vitamin B1), Vitamin B12 Supplement, Niacin, Riboflavin Supplement (source of vitamin B2), Inositol, Pyridoxine Hydrochloride (source of vitamin B6), Vitamin D3 Supplement, Folic Acid), Calcium Carbonate, Choline Chloride, Minerals (Ferrous Sulfate, Zinc Oxide, Manganese Sulfate, Copper Sulfate, Manganous Oxide, Potassium Iodide, Cobalt Carbonate), DL-Methionine, Rosemary Extract
4. GROUND YELLOW CORN, MEAT AND BONE MEAL, CORN GLUTEN MEAL, CHICKEN BY-PRODUCT MEAL, ANIMAL FAT (PRESERVED WITH BHA/BHT), WHEAT MILL RUN, NATURAL POULTRY FLAVOR, RICE, SALT, POTASSIUM CHLORIDE, CARAMEL COLOR, WHEAT FLOUR, WHEAT GLUTEN, VEGETABLE OIL, VITAMINS (CHOLINE CHLORIDE, dl-ALPHA TOCOPHEROL ACETATE [SOURCE OF VITAMIN E], L-ASCORBYL-2-POLYPHOSPHATE [SOURCE OF VITAMIN C*], VITAMIN A SUPPLEMENT, THIAMINE MONONITRATE [VITAMIN B1], BIOTIN, d-CALCIUM PANTOTHENATE, RIBOFLAVIN SUPPLEMENT [VITAMIN B2], VITAMIN D3 SUPPLEMENT, VITAMIN B12 SUPPLEMENT), TRACE MINERALS (ZINC SULFATE, COPPER SULFATE, POTASSIUM IODIDE)
I realize that at this point you don't really know how to read dog food labels, but you should be able to see that all three of the previous foods are very similar, with almost the exact same ingredients. So why is one brand more expensive than the other? Because you're paying for the name, that's why.
The 'lesser-quality' dog foods are heavily advertised, so that their names become familiar to the general public. The general public is more likely to purchase something that they recognize the name of, and trust what is said in the commercials put out by these companies as being gospel. For example, there's a new Purina commercial out now that says that they did a study and that dogs fed Purina from puppyhood lived 2 years longer. Longer than what? They don't say. They also don't say that dogs fed a better-quality food with more nutrition and less fillers (like Solid Gold, or Canidae) live on average 5 or more years longer than dogs fed lesser-quality foods like Purina. The Kibbles-N-Bits commercials are also misleading, leading you to believe that dogs love it, and that Kibbles-N-Bits is just as nutritious as the higher-quality foods, when in reality, it is one of the worst foods available (down there with Alpo and store brands). The companies that produce these dog foods can afford heavy advertising because they use cheap-o, bottom-of-the-barrel ingredients in their products. The foods that are much better for your dog, like Solid Gold, Canidae, Nutro Natural Choice, Wellness, Innova, California Natural, and Chicken Soup for the Dog Lover's Soul are not advertised like the crappy brands are because:
1) The people that purchase their products do not need advertising because they already know they are buying a better product.
2) They use more expensive, better-quality (often human grade) ingredients in their foods, so advertising would make the cost of their products go up as they had to compensate for the cost of advertising, and
3) Their foods are usually only available in certain pet stores or specialty stores that are not located in just about every city or town, as the crappy brands are. Advertising, therefore, simply wouldn't be worth the cost for the better-quality dog food companies. Does all that make sense?
Now, having said all that, I will begin to tell you what to look for (and what to stay away from) on a dog food label.
First, anything you can buy in the grocery store, Wal-Mart, or K-Mart type stores should be avoided. These foods include Purina, Iams, Pedigree, Alpo, and any "off-brand" or store brand (like Ol Roy or Maxximum Nutrition at Wal-Mart). This makes things difficult for many people because the grocery store is the only place around that they can purchase dog food from, without having to drive 50 or more miles to a pet specialty store. Hopefully this isn't a problem for you. But if you contact most manufacture will ship it to your front door.
Foods sold in feed stores are usually even worse, with the exception of Chicken Soup for the Dog Lover's Soul and Premium Edge. Both of these foods are good-quality foods that are often sold in feed stores that carry Diamond. Stay away from the other dog foods sold in feed stores, like Black Gold for example, because they are just as bad (or worse) as the store brands.
Now, on to the label reading!
The following is a list of ingredients that you should try to stay away from when purchasing dog food:
1) By-products. By-products are what is left over after the processing plants remove what meat is fit for human consumption and send it to the grocery stores. By products can contain anything from chicken heads and feet, to cow hooves and horns, fur, feathers, blood, skin, bone, feces, and even dirt and sawdust from the floors. By products are not kept fresh, and in some cases have even been known to sit in containers for 5 days or more before being picked up from the meat plant and taken to the dog food rendering plant.
2) Corn in any form, including "ground yellow corn," "corn meal," and "corn gluten meal." Corn is what is called a 'filler,' and it serves one purpose in pet food - to make the animal feel full. Dogs and cats cannot digest corn, so it just passes right through the digestive system and you get the privilege of cleaning it up when it comes out the other end. Some dogs are also allergic to corn, so just avoid any foods that contain any form of corn in their ingredients listing.
3) 'General' ingredients like "animal fat," "animal digest," and "meat meal" - you have no idea what these could contain (and you don't want to know). Instead, you want to look for things that are more specific, like "chicken fat" and "chicken meal," that way you know exactly what is in the food.
4) Chemical preservatives such as "propylene glycol," "BHA," and "BHT." Chemical preservatives make the food last longer, but every single one of them has been proven to cause cancer in lab rats. They will tell you that in small quantities, the preservatives are safe, but if you stop and think about it, your dog will be ingesting small quantities of these preservatives every day over his entire life span. They then build up to toxic levels inside his body and that's when they become dangerous and cancer-causing. You want food that's been naturally preserved. "Mixed tocopherols" is a natural preservative.
5) Soy, in any form. Soy is another filler, like corn, and some dogs are also severely allergic to it. It's best to just stay away from foods containing soy altogether.
6) Sorghum is another filler. Sorghum is an Old World grass that is cultivated as grain and forage.
7) Wheat - I only say this because some dogs are allergic to wheat. If your dog isn't allergic to wheat, then foods with "wheat flour" are okay. It won't hurt him unless he's allergic to it, and then you'll know because she'll likely develop skin problems.
Salt, while found in many dog foods, is an unnecessary ingredient, so if the dog food you choose contains salt, make sure it's down near the bottom of the list of ingredients, as there is usually a form of sodium in the added vitamins, and you don't want to be giving your dog too much of it.
For a better understanding Click Here
I know this seems like a lot, but if you want the best for your dog, you just aren't going to get that if the food you feed him contains the ingredients named above. The four ingredients listings I gave you previously will help you when looking at and comparing labels in the store, because all three are foods to stay away from. Below are three ingredients listings from foods that I not only have used, but that I recommend to those wanting to switch to something better for their dog:
1. Canidae - Canidae uses human-grade meats, meaning that their meats come from the same place that ours does, and their meats do not contain hormones, antibiotics, or other chemicals. Do check out their website, and especially the page titled "Ingredient Definitions." You can pay between $30-$35 for a 40 pound bag of Canidae and it lasts about 4-5 weeks.
Chicken Meal, Turkey Meal, Brown Rice, White Rice, Lamb Meal, Chicken Fat (preserved with Mixed Tocopherols, Rosemary Extract), Herring Meal, Flax Seed, Sun Cured Alfalfa Meal, Sunflower Oil, Chicken, Lecithin, Monocalcium Phosphate, Potassium Chloride, Choline Chloride, Linoleic Acid, Rosemary Extract, Sage Extract, Yeast Culture, Dried Enterococcus Faecium, Dried Lactobacillus Acidophilus Fermentation Product, Dried Aspergillus Oryzae Fermentation Extract, Dried Bacillus Subtilis Fermentation Extract, Inulin (from Chicory root), Saccharomyces Cerevisiae Fermentation Solubles, Yucca Schidigera Extract Mixed Tocopherols (source of Vitamin E), Zinc Amino Acid Chelate, Manganese Amino Acid Chelate, Iron Amino Acid Chelate, Copper Amino Acid Chelate, Cobalt Amino Acid Chelate, Vitamin A Supplement, Vitamin D3 Supplement, Ascorbic Acid (source of Vitamin C), Niacin, Thiamine Mononitrate (Vitamin B1), Riboflavin (source of B2), Beta Carotene, Calcium Pantothenate, Pyridoxine hydrochloride (Vitamin B6), Calcium Iodate, Folic Acid, D-Biotin, Sodium Selenite, Dried Papaya, Vitamin B12 Supplement.
2. Solid Gold - The following is the ingredients listing for their 'large breed' formula.
Bison Salmon Meal Brown Rice Millet Cracked Pearled Barley Oatmeal Rice Bran Canola Oil Flaxseed Oil Garlic Amaranth Blueberries Yucca Schidigera Extract Taurine Carotene Choline Chloride Vitamin E Supplement Iron Proteinate Zinc Proteinate Copper Proteinate Manganese Proteinate Potassium Iodide Thiamine Mononitrate Ascorbic Acid Vitamin A Supplement Biotin Calcium Panthothenate Selenomethionine Pyridoxine Hydrochloride Vitamin B12 Supplement Riboflavin Vitamin D Supplement Folic Acid
3. Innova - Natura makes four different dog foods, all of which can be found on this web page. Below is just the ingredients listing for Innova. On the web site you can click on each ingredient for a description, much like what is on the Canidae website.
Turkey, chicken, chicken meal, ground barley, ground brown rice, potatoes, natural flavors, ground white rice, chicken fat, herring, apples, carrots, cottage cheese, sunflower oil, alfalfa sprouts, egg, garlic, taurine, vitamins/minerals, Viable Naturally Occurring Microorganisms
Other foods that I recommend include:
* Wellness - (this food can be a bit rich for some dogs, not to mention it's expensive),
* Nutro Natural Choice - (there is also a Nutro Natural Choice Ultra, which, in my opinion, is too expensive for what it is),
* Premium Edge
* Chicken Soup for the Dog Lover's Soul - (which is about the same as Canidae but more expensive), and
* Nature's Recipe - (venison allergy formula only) There is really to many to name here see list further down the page.
Of course, you might also consider the raw food diet. I do feed Natural Balance kibble to my dog now, but in addition to that, when I cook for my family and I, whether we're having steak, pork chops, chicken, or fish, my dogs gets one of there own in raw form and absolutely LOVES it. Given raw, even bones are safe - it is only when you cook them that they can become dangerous for dogs. Even raw turkey bones are okay, but you should never give your dog any bone unless you can supervise, just in case the dog chokes or something. I've never had it happen, but you never know. If you're interested in going completely raw, do your research first.
I surely hope this isn't too much information all at once. If you have any more questions, or if you come across a food in the store that you are unsure about, please don't hesitate to check here: Dog Food Compareison . I'll do my very best to answer any question you may have also just email me.
Don't forget to introduce the new food gradually as it says on the back of the bag!
Some of The Best Dog Foods
Listed in no particular order Top Dry Foods
- Innova,California Natural.........Natura Pet Products, Santa Clara, CA..................(800) 532-7261
- Azmira Classic......................Azmira Holistic Animal Care, Tucson, AZ............(800) 497-5665
- Back to Basics............................Beowulf Natural Foods Syracuse, NY..................(800) 219-2558
- Canidae.......................................Canidae Corp, San Luis Obispo, CA.....................(800) 398-1600
- Eagle Pack Holistic Select..........Eagle Pet Products, Inc., Mishawaka, IN............(800) 255-5959
- Flint River Ranch,Dry Water, LC.....First River Ranch, Riverside, CA.................(909) 682-5048
- Hund-N-Flocken, Millennia...Solid Gold Health Products for pets, El Cajon, CA.....(800) 364-4863
- Limited Diets Duck & Potato....Innovative Veterinary Diets, Pittsburg,PA.............(800) 359-4483
- Natural Balance Ultra Premium..Dick Van Patten's Natural Balance,Pacoima, CA.(800) 829-4493
- Lifespan.........................................Petguard, Orange Park, FL....................................(800) 874-3221
- Pinnacle.........................................Breeder's Choice Pet Foods, Irwindale, CA...........(800) 255-4286
- Prime Life...........................Owen & Mandeville Pet Products Inc., Oxford, CT.........(888-881-7703
- PHD Canine Growth & Maintenane.....Perfect Healyh Diet Products Inc., White Plains, NY..(800) 743-1502
- Showbound Naturals.........................Intergrated Pet Products, Exton, PA..................(800) 542-4677
- Timberwolf Organics........................Yukon Nutritional Co., Lake Wales, FL..............(863) 439-0049
- Wellness Super5Mix Lamb....................Old Mother Hubbard, Lowell, MA................(800) 225-0904
- Wysong Maintenance.........................Wysong Corporation, Midland, MI...................(800) 748-0233
- Artemis............................Artemis Pet foods, Canoga Park, CA.....................................(800) 282-5876
- Bench & Field......................Bench & Field Pet Foods, LLC Mishawaka, IN...............(800) 525-4802
- Burns....................................Burns Pet Nutrition, Chesterston, IN................................(877) 983-9651
- Drs. Foster & Smith.............Drs. Foster & Smith, Rhinelander, WI.............................(800) 826-7206
- Go! Natural..........................For Paws Services, Inc. Abbotsford, BC...........................(866) 864-6112
- Royal Canin.........................Royal Canin USA ST. Peters, MO.....................................(800) 592-6687
- Praire...............................Nature's Variety, Lincoln, NE.................................................(888-519-7387
- Verus...............................Verus Pet Foods, Abingdon, MD.............................................(888-828-3787
Because the foods on this list represents a tiny 13% share of the market, you can expect them to be more difficult to find. Large supermarkets and even national chain pet supply stores don't generally sell these foods. These foods tend to be very expensive, so stores can't mark them up as much as they are accustomed to. Many of the makers of the foods on this list will sell directly to the pet owner and will ship to your door.
Things we did not do.
- We DID NOT conduct lab test
- We DID NOT inspect manufacturing plants
- We DID NOT select foods on the basis of protein or fat content
- We DID NOT examine every food on the market
- We DID NOT rank-order foods.
Selection Criteria: Recognize Good Ingredients In dog Food.
- Superior sources of protein. whole,fresh meats or single-source meat meal ie chicken meal rather than poultry meal.
- A whole-meat source as one of the first two ingredients. chicken or chicken meal
- Whole, unprocessed grains, vegetables, and other foods.
- A minimum of the following: Food fragments. Such as brewer's rice and wheat bran.
Listed in no particular order Top Canned Foods
- Innova......................Natura Pet Products, Santa Clara, CA................(800) 532-7261
- Active Life.................Active Life Pet Products, Boulder, CO...............(877) 291-2913
- Advanced Pet Diets........Breeder's Choice Pet Foods, Irwindale, CA.......(800) 255-4286
- Avo-Derm....................Breeder's Choice Pet Foods, Irwindale, CA...........(800) 255-4286
- Azmira......................Azmira Holistic Animal Care, Tuscon,AZ..............(800) 497-5665
- Boulder Creek Farms.........Active Life Pet Products, Boulder, CO...............(877) 291-2913
- California Natural..........Natura Pet Products, Santa Clara, CA................(800) 532-7261
- Canidae.....................Canidae Corp, San Luis Obispo, CA...................(800) 398-1600
- Eagle Pack..................Eagle Pet Products, Inc., Mishawaka, IN.............(800) 255-5959
- Evolve......................Triumph Pet Industries, INC., Warwick, NY...........(800) 331-5144
- Natural Life................Natural Life Pet Products, Girard, KS...............(800) 367-2391
- Lick Your Chops.............Intergrated Pet Products, Exton, PA.................(800) 542-4677
- Natural Balance.............Dick Van Patten's Natural Balance,Pacoima, CA.......(800) 829-4493
- Neura Meats.................Old Mother Hubbard, Lowell, MA......................(800) 225-0904
- PetGuard Premium............Petguard, Orange Park, FL...........................(800) 874-3221
- Pinnacle....................Breeder's Choice Pet Foods, Irwindale, CA...........(800) 255-4286
- Precise Plus................Precise Pet Products, Nacogdoches, TX...............(888-773-2473
- Solid Gold..................Solid Gold Health Products for pets, El Cajon, CA...(800) 364-4863
- Verus.......................Verus Pet Foods, Abingdon, MD.......................(888-828-3787
- Wellness....................Old Mother Hubbard, Lowell, MA......................(800) 225-0904
- Wysong......................Wysong Corporation, Midland, MI.....................(800) 748-0233
Listed in no particular order "NOT RECOMMENED DRY FOODS"
The differance between one appellation and another lay in the quality of the top three ingredients
- Abady Stress & Maintenance Formula
- APD Lamb Meal & Rice
- Beneful (NestlE Purina Petcare)
- Bil-Jac
- Breeded's Choice Avo-Derm
- Cornucopia Super Life
- Diamond's Premium Adult
- DR. Ballard's Growth & performance
- Eagle Pack Natural Formula
- Eukanuba Adult Maintenance
- Iams Maintenance Adult
- Kibbles 'N Bits
- Natural Life Adult Formula
- Nature's Best (Hill's Science Diet)
- Nature's Recipe Maintenance Lamb & Rice
- Nutro Premium Nutrition (Iams Company)
- Pedigree Prime
- Perfect Health Diet G&M Formula
- Precise Foundation Formula
- Purina One
- Science Diet Maintenance
- Sensible Choice Lamb & Rice (Royal Canin)
- Waltham Lamb Meal & Rice
Listed in no particular order "NOT RECOMMENED Canned FOODS"
- Alpo (Friskies Pet Care)
- Iams
- Eukanuba
- Pedigree (Waltham)
- Science Diet
THERE IS NO SINGLE "BEST" FOOD
